Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a international community of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to explore these tales and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
